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Siem Reap’s transformation and the allure of Angkor highlight the complex history of Southeast Asia.
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By Lucy Oh boy. Buckle up. I noticed, as we exited the immigration office, signs everywhere declaring “a tourist visa is not a working visa”. They must have a real problem with it, because I haven’t seen anywhere else with a sign like that. Vlad was still upset I had gone; he was convinced a…
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By Lucy The heat and sun are unrelenting and merciless. It rained twice while I was in HCMC, downpours of less than half an hour, and other than that it was sunny. I’ve never craved AC more in my life. And it twists my guts to know part of the pain is because I am…
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By Lucy Ho Chi Minh city, known as Sai Gon until the North won the Vietnam war. Sai Gon is also the name of the river; it means “tall trees”, presumably referring to the forest that used to be here. The streets are still dominated by giant trees that tower over 4 and 5 story…
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By Lucy Yay, daylight savings! It’s funny what a difference an hour makes. They don’t have it in Asia – the sun doesn’t really move around the sky, near the equator – so now everyone is only 11 hours behind me. Yay math! It does change how I organize my day. I prefer to contact…
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By Lucy “How foolish it is to wear oneself out in vain longing for warmth! Solitude is independence. It had been my wish and with the years I had attained it. It was cold. Oh, cold enough! But it was also still, wonderfully still and vast like the cold stillness of space in which the…
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By Lucy Note: WordPress broke last week and wasn’t loading properly as I tried to edit and post. I ended up posting early, in a rough form, because I was concerned that if I tried to schedule the post or load it to double check for errors, it wouldn’t let me back in. Chiang Mai…
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By Lucy I did not sleep well Sunday. I’m not sure why. Around midnight, I gave up and took a sleeping pill, but it had a paradoxical effect. I was left feeling even more wired and barely managed 5 hours of sleep. At 8, I forced myself out of bed and had breakfast. There was…
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By Lucy It is impossible to communicate to you a conception of the trembling sensation, half pleasurable and half fearful, with which I am preparing to depart […] I have often attributed my attachment to, my passionate enthusiasm for, the dangerous mysteries of ocean to that production of the most imaginative of modern poets. There…








